Are the gray wires in my switch boxes neutrals?












4















I’m trying to install new smart switches (box and switch oics included) where some old timer switches are currently installed. The new switches require a neutral wire and ground. Is the bundle of gray wires in the box the neutral wires and the bare (albeit with paint or drywall on them) wire the ground? If so, since my current switches don’t use a neutral or ground, can I just unravel any of the neutral and ground strands and use them in the new switches? Thank you for any help.



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user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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  • 1





    Eek. That's one of those Sonoffs, otherwise known as a Chinese cheapie. Except without the "cheap". Those are not UL-listed and are neither safe nor legal for use in the US. (or really any country). That's why you had to mail-order it and could not buy it in a big-box store like Home Depot. Even Amazon proper doesn't sell it, it's sold through their third-party Marketplace sellers.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago








  • 1





    Here's what I mean, when you search the product all you see for sellers is ebay, amazon marketplace, ali express etc. When you see that, run screaming.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago













  • Not entirely accurate. When I search, I get the listing for Amazon, and it is fulfilled by Amazon. This means Amazon stocks this item in their fulfillment centers for distribution. Now, yes, you may have other sellers offering them for a lower price, and you might wait up to a month to get them, because they come from China. Here is some info that I have found concerning Listings festo.com/cms/en-us_us/1346.htm

    – Jeff Cates
    8 mins ago
















4















I’m trying to install new smart switches (box and switch oics included) where some old timer switches are currently installed. The new switches require a neutral wire and ground. Is the bundle of gray wires in the box the neutral wires and the bare (albeit with paint or drywall on them) wire the ground? If so, since my current switches don’t use a neutral or ground, can I just unravel any of the neutral and ground strands and use them in the new switches? Thank you for any help.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1





    Eek. That's one of those Sonoffs, otherwise known as a Chinese cheapie. Except without the "cheap". Those are not UL-listed and are neither safe nor legal for use in the US. (or really any country). That's why you had to mail-order it and could not buy it in a big-box store like Home Depot. Even Amazon proper doesn't sell it, it's sold through their third-party Marketplace sellers.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago








  • 1





    Here's what I mean, when you search the product all you see for sellers is ebay, amazon marketplace, ali express etc. When you see that, run screaming.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago













  • Not entirely accurate. When I search, I get the listing for Amazon, and it is fulfilled by Amazon. This means Amazon stocks this item in their fulfillment centers for distribution. Now, yes, you may have other sellers offering them for a lower price, and you might wait up to a month to get them, because they come from China. Here is some info that I have found concerning Listings festo.com/cms/en-us_us/1346.htm

    – Jeff Cates
    8 mins ago














4












4








4








I’m trying to install new smart switches (box and switch oics included) where some old timer switches are currently installed. The new switches require a neutral wire and ground. Is the bundle of gray wires in the box the neutral wires and the bare (albeit with paint or drywall on them) wire the ground? If so, since my current switches don’t use a neutral or ground, can I just unravel any of the neutral and ground strands and use them in the new switches? Thank you for any help.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I’m trying to install new smart switches (box and switch oics included) where some old timer switches are currently installed. The new switches require a neutral wire and ground. Is the bundle of gray wires in the box the neutral wires and the bare (albeit with paint or drywall on them) wire the ground? If so, since my current switches don’t use a neutral or ground, can I just unravel any of the neutral and ground strands and use them in the new switches? Thank you for any help.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here







wiring






share|improve this question









New contributor




user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 4 hours ago









isherwood

49.3k456126




49.3k456126






New contributor




user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 6 hours ago









user98017user98017

211




211




New contributor




user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






user98017 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 1





    Eek. That's one of those Sonoffs, otherwise known as a Chinese cheapie. Except without the "cheap". Those are not UL-listed and are neither safe nor legal for use in the US. (or really any country). That's why you had to mail-order it and could not buy it in a big-box store like Home Depot. Even Amazon proper doesn't sell it, it's sold through their third-party Marketplace sellers.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago








  • 1





    Here's what I mean, when you search the product all you see for sellers is ebay, amazon marketplace, ali express etc. When you see that, run screaming.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago













  • Not entirely accurate. When I search, I get the listing for Amazon, and it is fulfilled by Amazon. This means Amazon stocks this item in their fulfillment centers for distribution. Now, yes, you may have other sellers offering them for a lower price, and you might wait up to a month to get them, because they come from China. Here is some info that I have found concerning Listings festo.com/cms/en-us_us/1346.htm

    – Jeff Cates
    8 mins ago














  • 1





    Eek. That's one of those Sonoffs, otherwise known as a Chinese cheapie. Except without the "cheap". Those are not UL-listed and are neither safe nor legal for use in the US. (or really any country). That's why you had to mail-order it and could not buy it in a big-box store like Home Depot. Even Amazon proper doesn't sell it, it's sold through their third-party Marketplace sellers.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago








  • 1





    Here's what I mean, when you search the product all you see for sellers is ebay, amazon marketplace, ali express etc. When you see that, run screaming.

    – Harper
    4 hours ago













  • Not entirely accurate. When I search, I get the listing for Amazon, and it is fulfilled by Amazon. This means Amazon stocks this item in their fulfillment centers for distribution. Now, yes, you may have other sellers offering them for a lower price, and you might wait up to a month to get them, because they come from China. Here is some info that I have found concerning Listings festo.com/cms/en-us_us/1346.htm

    – Jeff Cates
    8 mins ago








1




1





Eek. That's one of those Sonoffs, otherwise known as a Chinese cheapie. Except without the "cheap". Those are not UL-listed and are neither safe nor legal for use in the US. (or really any country). That's why you had to mail-order it and could not buy it in a big-box store like Home Depot. Even Amazon proper doesn't sell it, it's sold through their third-party Marketplace sellers.

– Harper
4 hours ago







Eek. That's one of those Sonoffs, otherwise known as a Chinese cheapie. Except without the "cheap". Those are not UL-listed and are neither safe nor legal for use in the US. (or really any country). That's why you had to mail-order it and could not buy it in a big-box store like Home Depot. Even Amazon proper doesn't sell it, it's sold through their third-party Marketplace sellers.

– Harper
4 hours ago






1




1





Here's what I mean, when you search the product all you see for sellers is ebay, amazon marketplace, ali express etc. When you see that, run screaming.

– Harper
4 hours ago







Here's what I mean, when you search the product all you see for sellers is ebay, amazon marketplace, ali express etc. When you see that, run screaming.

– Harper
4 hours ago















Not entirely accurate. When I search, I get the listing for Amazon, and it is fulfilled by Amazon. This means Amazon stocks this item in their fulfillment centers for distribution. Now, yes, you may have other sellers offering them for a lower price, and you might wait up to a month to get them, because they come from China. Here is some info that I have found concerning Listings festo.com/cms/en-us_us/1346.htm

– Jeff Cates
8 mins ago





Not entirely accurate. When I search, I get the listing for Amazon, and it is fulfilled by Amazon. This means Amazon stocks this item in their fulfillment centers for distribution. Now, yes, you may have other sellers offering them for a lower price, and you might wait up to a month to get them, because they come from China. Here is some info that I have found concerning Listings festo.com/cms/en-us_us/1346.htm

– Jeff Cates
8 mins ago










1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes


















5














The grey wires need to stay bundled together as do the copper ground wires - you can't just pull one out and use it. In order to use these bundles, you will have to add a small length of wire (of the same type and color) to the bundles (commonly referred to as a pigtail) and attach that to your new switch. When adding a wire to the bundle, it's best to use a new wire nut fastener, and make sure that it is rated for the number and size of conductors being bundled.



Also, with the smart switch, the "live" and "load" wire position matters, but on the old switch it does not, so you might not know which is which. Live is the wire that is always hot and load is the wire that goes up to the light fixture.






share|improve this answer
























  • Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

    – user98017
    6 hours ago











  • Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago











  • Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

    – user98017
    5 hours ago











  • Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago











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1 Answer
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active

oldest

votes








1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

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active

oldest

votes









5














The grey wires need to stay bundled together as do the copper ground wires - you can't just pull one out and use it. In order to use these bundles, you will have to add a small length of wire (of the same type and color) to the bundles (commonly referred to as a pigtail) and attach that to your new switch. When adding a wire to the bundle, it's best to use a new wire nut fastener, and make sure that it is rated for the number and size of conductors being bundled.



Also, with the smart switch, the "live" and "load" wire position matters, but on the old switch it does not, so you might not know which is which. Live is the wire that is always hot and load is the wire that goes up to the light fixture.






share|improve this answer
























  • Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

    – user98017
    6 hours ago











  • Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago











  • Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

    – user98017
    5 hours ago











  • Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago
















5














The grey wires need to stay bundled together as do the copper ground wires - you can't just pull one out and use it. In order to use these bundles, you will have to add a small length of wire (of the same type and color) to the bundles (commonly referred to as a pigtail) and attach that to your new switch. When adding a wire to the bundle, it's best to use a new wire nut fastener, and make sure that it is rated for the number and size of conductors being bundled.



Also, with the smart switch, the "live" and "load" wire position matters, but on the old switch it does not, so you might not know which is which. Live is the wire that is always hot and load is the wire that goes up to the light fixture.






share|improve this answer
























  • Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

    – user98017
    6 hours ago











  • Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago











  • Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

    – user98017
    5 hours ago











  • Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago














5












5








5







The grey wires need to stay bundled together as do the copper ground wires - you can't just pull one out and use it. In order to use these bundles, you will have to add a small length of wire (of the same type and color) to the bundles (commonly referred to as a pigtail) and attach that to your new switch. When adding a wire to the bundle, it's best to use a new wire nut fastener, and make sure that it is rated for the number and size of conductors being bundled.



Also, with the smart switch, the "live" and "load" wire position matters, but on the old switch it does not, so you might not know which is which. Live is the wire that is always hot and load is the wire that goes up to the light fixture.






share|improve this answer













The grey wires need to stay bundled together as do the copper ground wires - you can't just pull one out and use it. In order to use these bundles, you will have to add a small length of wire (of the same type and color) to the bundles (commonly referred to as a pigtail) and attach that to your new switch. When adding a wire to the bundle, it's best to use a new wire nut fastener, and make sure that it is rated for the number and size of conductors being bundled.



Also, with the smart switch, the "live" and "load" wire position matters, but on the old switch it does not, so you might not know which is which. Live is the wire that is always hot and load is the wire that goes up to the light fixture.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 6 hours ago









JPhi1618JPhi1618

8,90612142




8,90612142













  • Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

    – user98017
    6 hours ago











  • Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago











  • Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

    – user98017
    5 hours ago











  • Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago



















  • Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

    – user98017
    6 hours ago











  • Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago











  • Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

    – user98017
    5 hours ago











  • Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

    – JPhi1618
    5 hours ago

















Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

– user98017
6 hours ago





Ok, thank you. The switch manufacturer provided a small length of neutral wire as a pigtail, but since I don't have, or know how to use, a voltmeter and there is no distinguishing the live and load wires because they're both black, it sounds like I'm out of luck, correct? Thanks again for the help.

– user98017
6 hours ago













Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

– JPhi1618
5 hours ago





Right, there's really no way to tell without checking for voltage. Honestly a voltmeter/multimeter is a pretty basic, cheap tool these days and learning to use one would be great - but, I'm not sure I would mess around with high voltage before having those skills.

– JPhi1618
5 hours ago













Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

– user98017
5 hours ago





Thanks for such quick and helpful replies. I'll have to maybe look into getting and learning to use a voltmeter; I want to replace most of the switches with smart switches, so it'll likely be worthwhile.

– user98017
5 hours ago













Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

– JPhi1618
5 hours ago





Get a book on basic home wiring, too. There are a few situations you will run across that will be confusing or even dangerous if you've never seen it before. Replacing switches is a good DIY project, but you need some background info. Great job posting pictures and asking before messing around with the wire bundles.

– JPhi1618
5 hours ago




1




1





Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

– JPhi1618
5 hours ago





Right, "Live" is the one with voltage when the circuit is on. "Load" goes to the light and will show no voltage.

– JPhi1618
5 hours ago










user98017 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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