Right tool to dig six foot holes?





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I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.



What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?



The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.










share|improve this question




















  • 2





    On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly. It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.

    – BigLake
    yesterday













  • If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.

    – Robert Cline
    yesterday











  • Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday











  • @BigLake you can do far, far worse than buried electric when digging...

    – Doktor J
    7 hours ago











  • I didn't say you couldn't. And You're not going to dig up a high pressure gas main in your back yard, especially if you call utility services as you're supposed to a service line carries as little as a quarter of a pound of pressure. Not saying it's a good thing, but those line strikes that make headlines are almost always 4-6" gas mains on streets. I've been in the industry almost a decade.

    – BigLake
    4 hours ago


















12















I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.



What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?



The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.










share|improve this question




















  • 2





    On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly. It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.

    – BigLake
    yesterday













  • If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.

    – Robert Cline
    yesterday











  • Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday











  • @BigLake you can do far, far worse than buried electric when digging...

    – Doktor J
    7 hours ago











  • I didn't say you couldn't. And You're not going to dig up a high pressure gas main in your back yard, especially if you call utility services as you're supposed to a service line carries as little as a quarter of a pound of pressure. Not saying it's a good thing, but those line strikes that make headlines are almost always 4-6" gas mains on streets. I've been in the industry almost a decade.

    – BigLake
    4 hours ago














12












12








12








I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.



What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?



The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.










share|improve this question
















I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes.



What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes?



The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy.







digging






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited yesterday







Tyler Durden

















asked yesterday









Tyler DurdenTyler Durden

4,36921843




4,36921843








  • 2





    On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly. It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.

    – BigLake
    yesterday













  • If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.

    – Robert Cline
    yesterday











  • Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday











  • @BigLake you can do far, far worse than buried electric when digging...

    – Doktor J
    7 hours ago











  • I didn't say you couldn't. And You're not going to dig up a high pressure gas main in your back yard, especially if you call utility services as you're supposed to a service line carries as little as a quarter of a pound of pressure. Not saying it's a good thing, but those line strikes that make headlines are almost always 4-6" gas mains on streets. I've been in the industry almost a decade.

    – BigLake
    4 hours ago














  • 2





    On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly. It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.

    – BigLake
    yesterday













  • If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.

    – Robert Cline
    yesterday











  • Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday











  • @BigLake you can do far, far worse than buried electric when digging...

    – Doktor J
    7 hours ago











  • I didn't say you couldn't. And You're not going to dig up a high pressure gas main in your back yard, especially if you call utility services as you're supposed to a service line carries as little as a quarter of a pound of pressure. Not saying it's a good thing, but those line strikes that make headlines are almost always 4-6" gas mains on streets. I've been in the industry almost a decade.

    – BigLake
    4 hours ago








2




2





On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly. It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.

– BigLake
yesterday







On a side note... Not saying you haven't already, but make sure you call the utility locating company so you don't cut through a buried cable, water line, or worse... Buried electric. Can be deadly. It's probably in the high price range for a small project, but there are machines called hydro vacs which dig holes with vacuum power and high pressure water. It's actually what I do for a living.

– BigLake
yesterday















If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.

– Robert Cline
yesterday





If these are just dry wells then they don't need to be round at all. I'm also not sure why you think you need more than one, even if you are trying to keep a field drained. Just run your drainage pipes to one large dry well that can be dug by hand or with a small backhoe.

– Robert Cline
yesterday













Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.

– Hot Licks
yesterday





Around here you'd need a power auger, with extension, and at least one, if not two, fairly hefty friends.

– Hot Licks
yesterday













@BigLake you can do far, far worse than buried electric when digging...

– Doktor J
7 hours ago





@BigLake you can do far, far worse than buried electric when digging...

– Doktor J
7 hours ago













I didn't say you couldn't. And You're not going to dig up a high pressure gas main in your back yard, especially if you call utility services as you're supposed to a service line carries as little as a quarter of a pound of pressure. Not saying it's a good thing, but those line strikes that make headlines are almost always 4-6" gas mains on streets. I've been in the industry almost a decade.

– BigLake
4 hours ago





I didn't say you couldn't. And You're not going to dig up a high pressure gas main in your back yard, especially if you call utility services as you're supposed to a service line carries as little as a quarter of a pound of pressure. Not saying it's a good thing, but those line strikes that make headlines are almost always 4-6" gas mains on streets. I've been in the industry almost a decade.

– BigLake
4 hours ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















18














Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.



In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.



Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.



In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.



Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

    – DMoore
    yesterday



















3














I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.



Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.






share|improve this answer
























  • Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

    – Tyler Durden
    yesterday








  • 4





    @TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

    – Dan
    yesterday





















3














My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.



The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.



Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.



By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

    – bowl0stu
    12 hours ago











  • It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

    – HerrBag
    7 hours ago



















2














Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.



1) Hand auger



These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.



Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.



Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.



On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)



enter image description here



2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger



This one is front-mounted



enter image description here



These are also found mounted on the rear PTO



enter image description here



For deeper holes, you use a longer auger



enter image description here



Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.






share|improve this answer
























  • It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

    – canadianer
    yesterday











  • "Character-building", indeed.

    – bishop
    yesterday













  • @canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

    – Criggie
    22 hours ago






  • 1





    @Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

    – canadianer
    10 hours ago












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4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes








4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









18














Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.



In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.



Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.



In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.



Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

    – DMoore
    yesterday
















18














Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.



In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.



Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.



In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.



Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

    – DMoore
    yesterday














18












18








18







Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.



In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.



Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.



In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.



Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."






share|improve this answer













Depends a lot on the ground. The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them.



In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes.



Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence.



In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell.



Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap."







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.4k23991




55.4k23991








  • 1





    I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

    – DMoore
    yesterday














  • 1





    I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

    – DMoore
    yesterday








1




1





I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

– DMoore
yesterday





I agree with this. If we didn't want to pay more for an extended bit - two rental shops in my town will have a 6 foot bit... I would dig two feet down and start from there. The top part of you cast is fine to have loose dirt, in fact some people recommend a mushroom pour.

– DMoore
yesterday













3














I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.



Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.






share|improve this answer
























  • Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

    – Tyler Durden
    yesterday








  • 4





    @TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

    – Dan
    yesterday


















3














I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.



Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.






share|improve this answer
























  • Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

    – Tyler Durden
    yesterday








  • 4





    @TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

    – Dan
    yesterday
















3












3








3







I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.



Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.






share|improve this answer













I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes like you're talking about (I dug 7). The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper (I'm sure there's some max depth but it went as deep as I wanted.



Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









Fred ShopeFred Shope

21614




21614













  • Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

    – Tyler Durden
    yesterday








  • 4





    @TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

    – Dan
    yesterday





















  • Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

    – Tyler Durden
    yesterday








  • 4





    @TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

    – Dan
    yesterday



















Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

– Tyler Durden
yesterday







Ok, so basically I can use a standard two-man auger, it's just that my rental shop didn't have that? If the spirals only go for 3-feet, how does the dirt get out of the hole? (Obviously the extension bar will not lift dirt)

– Tyler Durden
yesterday






4




4





@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

– Dan
yesterday







@TylerDurden Once you get to the point where the bit can't pull the dirt all the way out you have to go with a lift out technique, where on the count of 3 both guys lift the bit (full of dirt) towards the top of the hole while it's still spinning and it deposits the dirt outside the hole. It's slower going, but it works

– Dan
yesterday













3














My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.



The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.



Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.



By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

    – bowl0stu
    12 hours ago











  • It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

    – HerrBag
    7 hours ago
















3














My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.



The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.



Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.



By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

    – bowl0stu
    12 hours ago











  • It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

    – HerrBag
    7 hours ago














3












3








3







My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.



The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.



Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.



By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!






share|improve this answer













My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity.



The process is simple. Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar." It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger.



Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end.



By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy!







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









Greg HillGreg Hill

50124




50124








  • 1





    does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

    – bowl0stu
    12 hours ago











  • It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

    – HerrBag
    7 hours ago














  • 1





    does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

    – bowl0stu
    12 hours ago











  • It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

    – HerrBag
    7 hours ago








1




1





does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

– bowl0stu
12 hours ago





does this cause excessive wear on your shop vac?

– bowl0stu
12 hours ago













It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

– HerrBag
7 hours ago





It should not cause vac wear&tear.. you keep the filter in place..

– HerrBag
7 hours ago











2














Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.



1) Hand auger



These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.



Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.



Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.



On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)



enter image description here



2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger



This one is front-mounted



enter image description here



These are also found mounted on the rear PTO



enter image description here



For deeper holes, you use a longer auger



enter image description here



Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.






share|improve this answer
























  • It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

    – canadianer
    yesterday











  • "Character-building", indeed.

    – bishop
    yesterday













  • @canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

    – Criggie
    22 hours ago






  • 1





    @Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

    – canadianer
    10 hours ago
















2














Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.



1) Hand auger



These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.



Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.



Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.



On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)



enter image description here



2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger



This one is front-mounted



enter image description here



These are also found mounted on the rear PTO



enter image description here



For deeper holes, you use a longer auger



enter image description here



Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.






share|improve this answer
























  • It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

    – canadianer
    yesterday











  • "Character-building", indeed.

    – bishop
    yesterday













  • @canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

    – Criggie
    22 hours ago






  • 1





    @Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

    – canadianer
    10 hours ago














2












2








2







Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.



1) Hand auger



These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.



Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.



Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.



On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)



enter image description here



2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger



This one is front-mounted



enter image description here



These are also found mounted on the rear PTO



enter image description here



For deeper holes, you use a longer auger



enter image description here



Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.






share|improve this answer













Depends on your budget, and the value of your time.



1) Hand auger



These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. Notice the extensions? You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one.



Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all.



Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole.



On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :)



enter image description here



2) Tractor Mounted Auger / Post Hole Digger



This one is front-mounted



enter image description here



These are also found mounted on the rear PTO



enter image description here



For deeper holes, you use a longer auger



enter image description here



Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









CriggieCriggie

1,108618




1,108618













  • It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

    – canadianer
    yesterday











  • "Character-building", indeed.

    – bishop
    yesterday













  • @canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

    – Criggie
    22 hours ago






  • 1





    @Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

    – canadianer
    10 hours ago



















  • It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

    – canadianer
    yesterday











  • "Character-building", indeed.

    – bishop
    yesterday













  • @canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

    – Criggie
    22 hours ago






  • 1





    @Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

    – canadianer
    10 hours ago

















It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

– canadianer
yesterday





It likely depends on the soil but, in my experience, with no down pressure, those 3-point hitch augers approach uselessness.

– canadianer
yesterday













"Character-building", indeed.

– bishop
yesterday







"Character-building", indeed.

– bishop
yesterday















@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

– Criggie
22 hours ago





@canadianer erm - the tractor's pushing it down, so ~hundred kilos of pressure minimum ?

– Criggie
22 hours ago




1




1





@Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

– canadianer
10 hours ago





@Criggie most 3-point hitches don’t actually push down; they rely on the weight of the implement to lower.

– canadianer
10 hours ago


















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